Hitchhiking Lapland Part III - The Heart Of Sápmi

There is only one road going deeper into Lapland, towards Kautokeino, a small town and traditional meeting place of the Sámi, who were once nomadic. It begins to rain as Tarja and her teenage daughter invite me into their cozy car. Originally from Trondheim, they’re on a geocaching road trip and sleep in the back of their pick-up. On an open mountain plain, under crooked dwarf birches, we seek for a cache. It’s raining heavily but their cheerful spirit is contagious.
80 kilometers later Tarja buys us hot dogs at a gas station. They drop me off at the Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park and we hug goodbye. Tarja gives me their address in Trondheim and asks me to send a postcard when I’m back in Germany. And she hands me something else, a chocolate bar: “When you’re cold and tired and feel like you can't go on, eat this."

Some animal sound scares me a bit as I explore the area around my tent. I slip and my boots get soaked. A spare pair of socks and plastic bags that I pull over my…